The Sultanate of Oman sits on the Arabian sea. Relatively easy to get to (seven hours to Muscat), with only a four hour time difference, it is an altogether different experience to neighbouring Dubai. Minarets and mosques give way to miles of desert with enormous dunes and stunning mountain passes – accessible independently or with a guide and a sturdy 4x4. Its unspoilt coastline is being developed sensitively and you can enjoy some of the most beautiful beaches in the region, together with diving, dolphin watching and turtle nesting. We asked Dubai local, Marie Prince, for the lowdown on camping while Kate Chetwood reports on a 5-star luxury hotel trip from the UK.

When I was a child I loved camping. All those damp groundsheets and sputtering primus stoves just made it more fun. These days, with two small girls in tow, camping trips need to meet strict criteria to even be considered – dry, warm weather, strict time limit and a pretty special camping spot.

And this is how I came to be persuaded (by Charlotte, 5 and Cerys, 3 and their father) to eschew holiday luxury and set off in a heavily burdened four wheel drive for a camping and exploring trip to the beaches south of Muscat in Oman.

With children suitably sedated by colouring, snacks and the promise of a swim in Nizwa at midday, we negotiated the queuing and inexplicable forms that are requisite for the wonderfully exotic land borders in this part of the world. The rolling orange desert of the UAE was replaced by a biblical landscape of dusty foothills, hill forts and views of the jagged Hajar Mountains with only surprised goats and camels for company. The road to Nizwa delivers atmospheric village souks at Bahla and Ibri where livestock, dates and other foodstuffs are auctioned daily and local craftsmen repair silver khanjars and jewellery as they have for generations. If this could be considered adult sightseeing, it is easily balanced by family-friendly exploration of hidden watchtowers, forts and wind towers, some dating from the 17th Century – spotted by eagle-eyed children as the road snakes into Nizwa. Capital of Oman in the sixth and seventh centuries, Nizwa enjoyed a reputation as a haven for poets and intellectuals. Today it remains an important town, flanked by fertile wadis and most importantly for us, home to the Falaj Daris hotel and its pool. With rooms opening onto two shady central courtyards in the Arab style, the hotel is a great staging point for a leisurely approach to Muscat and a good base for the climb to Jabal Shams (the highest point in Oman) and the Sayq Plateau.

However, we had a date with nature. Resisting the temptation to linger in comfortable beds, we were up early, the sat nav helping to skirt Muscat’s big-city traffic (well, it’s all relative of course!). There’s only one road to As Sifah beach and that follows the path of least resistance through mountains, palm-lined wadis and occasional sand flats of mangroves until tarmac ends.

A 20 kilometre recce of pristine sand and shingle found us our campsite under the cliffs with rocky headland to our left and endless white sand stretching away to our right. Tent pitched, we collected driftwood for our fire and watched the girls chasing crabs into the surf. Perfect!

The long beach days found their rhythm of campfires, snorkelling, fishing and snoozing in a landscape of cormorants, flying fish and the odd foraging goat. At dawn, a boatload of fishermen waved as they passed to bring in their nets and, in the afternoon, young boys arrived to see what they could pull in from the rocks.

Our children, exhausted from running, climbing and swimming, slept soundly while we lounged Bedouin-style watching the stars. Three days on the beach in such complete solitude was the perfect recharge. It felt amazingly good for the soul.

As we packed up and followed our tyre tracks back to the road we vowed to return to Oman and soon. We needed more time to explore the turtle beaches further to the south and some more of the oasis-green wadis with their ancient falaj and fabled freshwater pools. Time to plan some serious souk shopping for one of those gorgeously decorated Omani wedding chests. And time for a few more days camping on the beach.

Oman is a big and beautiful country where everyone you meet has a smile on their face – and an extra smile for your children. Oh, and camping hasn’t changed much since I was a child. The best part is still stepping into that first shower in a real bathroom with hot running water.

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In January – pregnant, miserable and surrounded by ill children, I decided that some winter sun was essential. I wanted a week’s holiday somewhere properly hot, with a sandy beach nearby and a swimming pool. We wanted to be next to our children but not sharing a roomwith them – and ideally have some babysitting facilities on tap and child-friendly restaurants nearby. On the advice of a friend, we headed for the Shangri-La al Waha family-friendly resort for a week in March.

The overnight Gulf Airways flight of 7 and a half hours to Muscat was fine. Our private transfer bus took us past neat crisp apartment blocks on immaculate roads. The overall impression was of a calm, wealthy city. Date palms stood stoically bearing the heat, looking radiant – such is the efficiency of the irrigation system and de-salination plants. Outside Muscat the desert opens up and is so arid that there are no signs of life at all. A twisty road took us up and down through apricot-coloured mountains. Half an hour later we were driving through a tunnel carved in sheer rock to our resort on the other side.

Our rooms were large and immaculate, with Egyptian cotton sheets, balconies and amazing marbled bathrooms and walk-in showers. All the trimmings for adults and yet very child friendly too. There was even CBeebies on one of the TV channels in the morning!

Lovely, lazy days followed where to our amazement both my husband and I were able to relax and enjoy both ourselves and our children. Pick up your towels and your free mineral water and off you go. We tended to hang out by a very small toddlers’ pool which had a fountain in the middle. The boys played happily, filling and emptying buckets with water for hours on end in the shade. The kids club was open from 9.30am–6pm every day and provided respite from the intense heat. There were computer games, dvds, books toys and puzzles, and activities like treasure hunts and mask making daily. Nannies can be booked to help you with your children during the day if you like or to watch them while they sleep. Without exception the staff were kind and friendly and helpful and seemed to genuinely like children.

Lunch was eaten outside or on our shaded balcony overlooking the sea and then we fell into bed for a long siesta. There was also the glorious sandy beach – the sea was lovely and warm and clear greenyblue. The beach is protected as giant turtles lay their eggs there. We got a call one night; woke the boys and hurried down to the wonderful sight of a huge turtle burying her freshly laid eggs in the sand byflicking the sand with her flippers.

Quality time with each other and the boys in a country that totally charmed us. We will return.

A family room at the Shangri La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa: Al Waha costs £3,829 for two adults and two children (under 12) on a b&b basis with Western & Oriental. Flights and transfers included.

Oman Fact File

Travel Agents

Bushbaby Travel
Series of 4 and 5 star hotels.
Tel 01252 792984
www.bushbabytravel.com

Cazenove & Loyd
Includes luxury camping programme. Tried and tested family options.
Tel 020 7384 2332
www.cazenoveandloyd.com

Explore
Family-friendly adventure holidays with several Omani options.
Tel 0844 499 0901
www.explore.co.uk

Hungry Lions
Tel 01483 762033
www.hungrylions.co.uk

Oman Experiences
Fabulous itineraries arranged by Oman specialist. New for 2008 are Luxury Fly Camping Safaris and Off-Road Oman.
Tel 0808 178 5254
www.oman-experiences.com

Scott Dunn
Good desert camping/beach hotel combinations suggested
Tel 020 8682 5075
www.scottdunn.com

Western and Oriental
Tel 0845 277 3355
www.westernoriental.com

DIY

Driving
If you are planning a desert trip, don’t be tempted to try without an off-roader. Ideally, you should either take a guide or arrange off road tuition. Car hire (with pick up from the airport) can be arranged with most car hire agents. A 4x4 with Europcarwww.europcar.com) cost approx £40/day (

Camping
Organised campsites with huts/dorms are inexpensive, sociable and friendly and have showers with hot water. Combine stays at sites with pitching your own tent (you can bring from the UK) pretty much as you want. (Note: permits required for camping on some turtle beaches.)

Recommended reading

Oman Off Road (1st Ed) £20, Explorer Publishing
www.destinationoman.com is a good website.