Looking back at the photos for this piece, God I look relaxed.  That’s what Greece does for you. On arrival, you are transported to a place where the only things that are important are where your next meal is coming from and whether you have you got enough petrol in your boat to get to you to the next bay.  Admittedly our first holiday to Corfu was pre-twins (now nearly two) but we went back to the same place last year and it was still a wonderful escape ... on closer inspection I do look a lot more than two years older ...

We have been to other Ionian islands (as opposed to the Cyclades, like Santorini – different architecture, different everything) such as Leftkas and Kephalonia, which are both gorgeous and a bit more remote but we love Corfu because our holiday centres on boats, which is our passion.

Corfu, Kerkura ... and the particular northeast pocket not so affectionately known as Kensington on Sea is a sparkling jewel in the many treasures of Greece. Quite a few British villa companies come here, and it is where CV Travel made its eponymous mark, and who my husband’s family travelled with 30 years ago. It is true that this area of Corfu is favoured by the likes of Mandelson (and lots of royalty) but they keep themselves in the beautiful Rothchild’s villa, which you can see from the sea.

We keep coming back yet we have yet to find the perfect villa: beautiful, dreamy, lived-in home but with fifteen minutes’ (unbearably hot in the middle of the day) drive to the local port versus Greek-style ‘rental’ property, everything a bit dodgy but minutes to the sea and magnificent view. The jury is still out as to which one we would go to again.

I studied Classics at university, so whilst my family thinks it is a bit sad that I know the Greek alphabet and a few, in my mind, essential words, I actually don’t mind their sniggering. It means I am the one on first-name terms with the maid to organise babysitting, local supermarket owner to source the baby squid and the most important boat man. All villa companies will organise the boat hire before you arrive. For our little bit of the island, which includes the gorgeous St Stephano, Mr Filippos seems to have the market wrapped up and he is charming with it.

 

Most days comprise of finding new places to anchor and swim before mooring for lunch. Our favourite bays are Agni because it is has the best restaurants, Toulas and Nicolas, and the smaller Kaminaki. I know it is a cliché but the Greeks do love children and we are welcomed with open arms. Post-lunch activities consist of no more than kids jumping off jetties with lots of other children and the babies throwing stones into the water. Kaminaki is where my husband stayed when there wasn’t the plethora of boats there are today and people tended to stick to one bay. You’ll not find a clearer sea anywhere in the world. Kalami is a popular bay, and boasts the White House restaurant, home to Gerald Durrell when he wrote My Family and Other Animals.

 

Back on the boat after lunch, we may try to catch some fish to cook for supper, and enjoy spotting mega yachts. The children plead daily for us to allow them to go donut- and sofa- ing whilst being pulled by a speed boat (you have to try it, whatever your age) but best of all we like to just relax on board, whilst some pose in their rip-off Police sunglasses (see main picture).

Across the water, at its shortest distance, just one mile from Corfu, Albania is a constant source of mystery. Steeped in history yet undiscovered, it has been closed to the world thanks to communism and dictatorship. Although gradually opening up, the tradional ways are still strikingly evident with almost nightly displays of burning fields in late summer. A waiter at one of our favourite restaurants, Imerolia Taverna, himself an Albanian, tells the story of his father being shot at as he escaped to Greece.

 

Once or twice we’ll go to Avlaki beach for sailing and windsurfing by the the hour. One of us will go to the local town of Kassopi, which is typically Greek. We made the fatal error of discovering donuts on our first trip here and it has now become a daily breakfast ritual. Be sure to pick up from the supermarket the ingredients to make your own flat bread, which is so easy to cook on a BBQ and delicious with everything Greek: lamb, taramasalata, tzakiki, aubergine. And go scrumping for figs in late August.

It is guaranteed you will meet someone you know here, which in principle sounds horrendous but always turns out to be fun. This year I got back to London to a message from a friend to say that we’d been octopus hunting with her best friend (long story but there can’t be many families of redheads making as much noise about spotting an octopus). And we also bumped into an old university friend and had a surreal but lovely lunch with her and her kids and multimillionaire boyfriend.

As our family grows up there is plenty for them to do: we happily left our 12 and 10 year old in the village, playing pool in the open air café and they felt a healthy sense of freedom. The search is now on for the ideal villa and location ... perhaps we will try Paxos this year.

Annie Reid travelled with C V Travel CVTravel.co.uk 7401 1010

 

WHO TO BOOK WITH

Laid-back outcrops dotted with deserted beaches, sugar cube villas and quiet fishing villages; no wonder the Greek islands hold so many holidaymakers in their spell. But with so many islands –over 2,000, and 270 or so inhabited –it can be difficult to choose where to go. Some islands are busy in high season, others permanently quiet because they’re so hard to get to. So if the idea of hopping from ferry to fishing boat seems a reckless, rather than romantic idea, or you want complete solitude, follow our guide to the different regions and holiday companies who can take you there.

CV Travel Luxury villa company that started on Corfu, and now offers holidays all over the Mediterranean and Caribbean. Nannies, cooks and garden ers can all be arranged on eight Greek islands, and in Athens.
020 7401 1010
cvtravel.co.uk

Exclusive Escapes Villas with private pools, boutique hotels and apartments on the Ionian islands of Cephalonia, and new this year, Ithaca. All are handpicked, and exclusive – as the name suggests – to Exclusive Escapes
020 8605 3500
exclusiveescapes.co.uk

Five Star Greece Luxury villas on 27 islands, and will talk you through the differences between each. As they put it, they know the difference between Paxos and Paros.
020 8422 4885
fivestargreece.com

Holiday Rentals has plenty of privately owned options, ideal if you want to sort your own flights. Two bedroom villas from approximately £140 per night. 
holiday-rentals.co.uk

Greek Islands Club Villas away from the crowds in the Ionian and Aegean Seas. Offer a good programme of island tours, including dolphin watching and private walks.
020 8232 9780
greekislandsclub.com

Greek Sun Holidays Hotels and villas on the main island groups. Specialist advisors will talk you through island hopping options, and which properties are best for families.
01732 740317
greeksun.co.uk

Kids in the Med from W&O Travel A scattering of large, family friendly hotels across mainland Greece and its islands.
0845 277 3355 
wandotravel.com

Meon Villas Villas with pools on Corfu, Crete, Zante, Cephalonia, the Athenian Riviera and Lefkas. Useful search facility for family villas, and good selection of larger villas suitable for more than one family.
0800 783 1410
meonvillas.co.uk

Simpson Travel Large selection of hotels, apartments, cottages and villas, ranging from simple stone structures, to contemporary boltholes with infinity pools and staff on request.
020 8392 5858
simpsontravel.com

Sun Isle Holidays Good value selection of villas on the most popular Greek islands, including Corfu, Crete and Skiathos.
08000 911601
sunisle.co.uk

Sunvil Wide range of hotel and villa holidays, with a focus on the individual and the unpackaged, and discounts for children.
020 8758 4758
sunvil.co.uk