
Brazil will play host to the World Cup in 2014 and to the Olympics in 2016, drawing worldwide attention. To those in the know, it has been a well-kept secret for years.
I was rather reluctant to spill the beans about Brazil. It has been our favourite holiday destination over the last few years and it has felt like our own secret discovery. However, in the end, it’s just too good not to share, and seeing as the world will be discovering it over the next few years as it hosts FIFA as well as the Olympics, it won’t remain secret for much longer...
Our criteria for family holidays are simple. Sunshine, beaches, fun and adventure, without jet lag, injections, pills or dangerous diseases. We had a couple of successful holidays in South Africa, and were looking for something a little more off the beaten track. The first time we went to Brazil – without any family connections or any particular reason to go other than it looked like fun – our children were three and four years old. But it ticked all the boxes; the time difference is only three hours behind the UK and for a week over February half term Brazil offered a sunny escape from grey and cold London.
For our first trip, we employed the services of Dehouche Travel. Dehouche is a British run luxury boutique travel specialist, based in Rio de Janeiro; with so much to discover in Brazil it is helpful to have an agent on the ground.
We went all the way to Trancoso in Bahia. It was a bit of a mission to get there – a 24-hour trip which involved flying to Sao Paolo, an internal flight and then a drive. But on arrival we knew it had been worth the effort. The Villas de Trancoso are set on the beach a mile outside the village, and we spent a blissful week relaxing in our two bedroom bungalow, hanging out on the beach during the day and driving our beach buggy into the village for supper with the children in the evenings. The village is sleepy by day, with everyone on the beach, and gorgeous by night with a beautiful, candlelit quadrangle, great restaurants and lovely little shops. Everyone we came across, from the staff at the hotel to stall holders on the beach to the locals in the village, was, without fail, friendly, warm and welcoming.
We ate great food, learned to surf in the sea and swam in the pool, read piles of books and relaxed more than we thought possible with two small children. We went home to London eight days later (still February, still grey, still cold) feeling completely recharged. We were hooked.
For our second trip, a year later, we went for less adventure and organised the trip ourselves. This time we went at Easter and decided to try Buzios. Buzios is Brazil’s St Tropez – on a bigger scale. There are 23 beaches to explore, with surfing beaches on the Atlantic side and calmer seas on the bay side. There are great restaurants, cool nightclubs and fabulous shopping. This is Brazil beach glamour – and it’s great. We stayed at the Casas Brancas, close to the middle of town. Like much of Brazil, it’s shabby chic, rather than five-star luxury – and wonderful for it. There is a tiny pool and a small spa at the hotel, but the location is the point. There are wonderful views from the balconies and delicious breakfasts; then it’s off with a beach bag to explore a different beach each day.
Buzios is two and a half hours by car from Rio de Janeiro, and a week here with a couple of days in Rio either side makes a wonderful holiday. You will be able to combine some sightseeing in Rio with the total relaxation of the days at the beach, without a great deal of travelling in between.
We have had stopovers in Rio and Sao Paolo and would definitely recommend Rio out of the two. The amazing statue of Christ the Redeemer and a trip up Sugar Loaf Mountain are not to be missed. As for the people spotting by the pool on the roof of The Fasano Hotel or on the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana... Try and stay at the Copacabana, if only for one night.
For our third trip, last year, we decided to be more adventurous and to cover a bit more of the country. We planned a trip (again with the help of Dehouche) which took us first of all south to the Argentine border to see the incredible Iguacu Falls, and then north to Salvador, to the hippy beach resort of Ilheus.
The falls at Iguacu sit on the border between Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. We stayed at the wonderful Hotel das Cataratas on the Brazilian side from where we could walk to see the falls. We booked a guide who took us across a bridge over to the Argentine side so that we could then walk right up to the edge of the falls. There were butterflies everywhere, the roar of the water was all around us – it really was an incredible place to be. The absolute highlight was a boat trip right under the falls, and the feeling of the water crashing down on top of us was extraordinary, thunderous, like nothing else we had ever experienced. With older children – ours were seven and eight by now – this is an unmissable element to a Brazilian adventure.
After two nights at the falls, we flew north to Salvador. Salvador da Bahia is the capital of the north-eastern region, and the old city is full of character and history, with cobbled streets and 300-year-old churches. We travelled on in a tiny plane to Ilheus – a hippy haven and the ultimate in Brazilian chic. Miles of beaches, great surf, and the perfect setting for more chilling, reading and eating. Flip-flop heaven sums it up – relax and let yourself go with the flow.
The only thing that can be a bit tricky in Brazil is the language. English is not widely spoken, and neither French nor Spanish will get you very far. Arm yourself with a few key words and phrases of Portuguese. With lots of hand gestures and a big smile, you’ll be fine. Brazilians recognise they are blessed by sunshine, music and football – what more could anyone want?
RIO DE JANEIRO TOP 5
1 Breakfast at the Copacabana Palace Hotel
2 Make a trip to the beach at Ipanema to watch the people and join in with the football – both national pastimes
3 Enjoy lunch at Aprazivel, where you sit on balconies among avocado trees
4 Take a photo underneath the huge statue of Christ the Redeemer
5 Ride the cable car up Sugar Loaf Mountain
DOS AND DON’TS
1 Do hire a driver or take taxis – don’t drive yourself in Brazil
2 Do be discreet – don’t take lots of flashy jewellery or big cameras
3 Do enjoy the atmosphere, relax and keep an open mind – don’t hesitate to join in the fun
4 Do plan your trip well – don’t leave bookings to the last minute as popular restaurants and hotels will be busy
WHERE NEXT? There is still so much more to see and do...
1 Surfing in Recife
2 Take a boat trip up the Amazon and the gateway city of Manaus – this would be a great trip with older children
3 Tour the Panatal Wetlands for incredible wildlife
4 Visit Fernando de Noronha – a marine eco park which limits visitors to 400 a day
5 Florianopolis in the south for more surfing beaches
Flying direct to Rio de Janeiro from London with British Airways takes under 12 hours (and it is often possible to use Airmiles). For more information on Dehouche Travel contact info@dehouche.com, visit their website www.dehouche.com or call direct from the UK on 0871 284 7770 or from Brazil on +5521 2512 3895
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